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SS Thistlegorm: Diving the Red Sea

Bernd — Fri, 19 Mar 2010 10:54:57 +0000

Sharm el-Sheikh (Global Adventures): Located on the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula, the city of Sharm el-Sheikh overlooks the Straits of Tiran at the mouth of the Gulf of Aqaba. Since tourism is the single most important industry in the area, strict environmental laws have been introduced and commercial shipping has been restricted. Zoning laws limit the height of buildings in the city to blend in with the natural beauty of its surroundings. Over 100 resorts dot the area, which includes the planned community of Naama Bay 3.7 miles (6 kilometers) to the north.

Since the waters are clear and calm for most of the year, Sharm el-Sheikh has become a favorite spot for scuba divers from around the world. 250 different coral reefs in the area are home to 1,000 species of fish. The Ras Mohammed reef at the southern-most tip of the peninsula has been designated a national park, serving to protect the area’s wildlife as well as its natural landscape and the shoreline. It offers some jaw-dropping dive sites with 2,625 feet (800 meter) drop-offs, pounding currents and flourishing coral gardens.

The reefs have also developed into a graveyard for many shipwrecks. The most popular one is the SS Thistlegorm. Built in 1940 by Joseph Thompson & Son in Sunderland, England, the Thistlegorm served as a British armed merchant navy ship. She was armed with a 4.7-inch (120mm) anti-aircraft gun and a heavy caliber machine gun was attached to the stern of the ship after she went into service. The vessel was one of several Thistle class ships owned and operated by the Albyn Line.

After departing from Glasgow on June 2, 1941, the SS Thistlegorm sailed as part of a convoy to Cape Town, South Africa. She refueled before heading north along the East coast of Africa and into the Red Sea. Due to a collision in the Suez Canal, the ship moored at safe anchorage close to Sharm el-Sheikh. On October 6, 1941, the boat was hit by two German bombs that blew a hole in the port side, igniting the tank ammunition that was in the hold.

Jacques-Yves Cousteau (re)discovered the 419 feet (128 meter) long wreck in 1956, using information provided by local fisherman. He found the stern section of the wreck sitting almost horizontal on the sandy bottom and later documented the exploration in his book The Living Sea. After Sharm el-Sheikh gained a reputation as a water sport resort in the 1990s, divers started to explore the wreck on a daily base.

Today, the Thistlegorm sits in 105 feet (32 meters) of water on the sea floor. The massive explosion blew part of her superstructure away, making the wreck very accessible to divers. Trucks, motorcycles, engines, army boots, rifles, and airplane spare parts can be seen in the holding decks. A bath tub filled with water in the 72 to 82 degrees temperature range waits for divers towards the bow, and a toilet sits near the stern. Some of the highlights appreciated by all visitors include train wagons and armored vehicles previously destined for the Royal Army. A steam locomotive which had been stored as deck cargo can be found on the port side of the wreck. The large propeller, the 3.5″ gun and two anti aircraft guns are still in place. Artillery litters the blast area. With good buoyancy control, divers can penetrate the wreck and explore the rear accommodations area.

Unfortunately, the vessel is rapidly disintegrating. Over the years, dive boats mooring to the wreck have broken down the structure. Corrosion is accelerated due to the high salinity of the water in the Red Sea. To help preserve the wreck, the Hurghada Environmental Protection and Conservation Association installed thirty two permanent mooring buoys in December 2007. Due to the strong current and mistakes made during the installation, none of the buoys remain in place. The dive boats once again moor directly to the wreck, further disintegrating the SS Thistlegorm.

While the British tabloid The Times named the Thistlegorm as one of the top ten wreck diving sites in the world, divers may want to hurry to explore the place. The front boiler cover of the port steam train did already fall off, the port deck above the number 1 hold has collapsed, and most handrails used by dive master to moor their boats are gone. All but a few of the portholes have disappeared.

Nevertheless, dropping down to the bow can be an awesome sight, thanks in part to 80 – 100 feet (24 to 30 meters) visibility. The wreck has a resident school of sweepers hovering around its upper deck. Turtles, Batfish, Jacks, Snapper and Barracuda are a common site, and even sharks patrol the Thistlegorm from time to time. The vessel is still a heaven for wreck enthusiasts, but it is also one of the most underrated fish dives in the area. Arriving early on the site helps to enjoy the dive, since it can be a Circus when the day-boat crowd arrives.

The wreck can be found at 27°42′00″N; 34°05′00″E, and a video found on YouTube offers some insight into the dive.

Sharm el-Sheikh

Beautiful Scenery: Tauern Bike Path

Mike — Thu, 18 Mar 2010 12:00:09 +0000

Salzburg (Global Adventures): The Tauern mountain range is part of the Central Eastern Alps and features some of the highest peaks in Austria. The Venediger Group includes about 20 mountains ranging from 9,843 to 12,028 feet (3,000 to 3,666 meter), and the Glockner Group features Austria highest peak, the 12,461 feet (3,798 meter) Grossglockner.

The National Park “Hohe Tauern” is the largest in Austria, and the “Tauern Bike Path” runs along its northern boundary. The 695 square mile (1,800 square kilometer) park encompasses 246 glaciers and 304 mountains at 9,000 feet (2,743 meters) or higher. The “Tauern Bike Path” allows discovering one of Austria’s most beautiful regions. It runs along the banks of the Salzach River and passes through dozens of picturesque towns, yet it manages to avoid busy roads. While the 100 mile path is one of Europe’s most popular touring routes, it never feels crowded.

The clearly marked path starts in Krimml, a small mountain village and popular holiday resort at an elevation of 3,500 feet (1,067 meter). It ends 100 miles (161 kilometers) and over 2,100 vertical feet (640 meter) later in Salzburg. Krimml is well known for its waterfalls. With a total drop of 1,247 feet (380 meter), the Krimml waterfalls are among Europe’s highest and a source for the Salzach River.

Following the river downstream, the Tauern Bike Path will gently sloop through the Rosental valley and pass the towns of Neukirchen, Bramberg, and Mittersill before reaching Zell am See after approximately 36 miles (58 kilometers). The small town of about 10,000 is a major tourist destination on picturesque Lake Zeller. The Hundstein is with 6,946 feet (2,117 meter) the highest peak in the area and provides a dramatic backdrop when seen from across the lake. The city itself dates back to Roman times and the St. Hippolyte Church is the oldest known building in the region.

Following the route to Bischofshofen, cyclists can enjoy grand views of the Grossglockner, Austria’s highest peak. They will pass the town of St. Johann im Pongau, the most important shopping and tourist center in the region. St. Johann is famous for the scenic Liechtenstein gorge, open from mid-May to the end of October, and a beautiful cathedral.

Every year in January, Bischofshofen hosts the final competition of the traditional “Four Hills Tournament”, an international ski jumping event. This 36 mile (58 kilometer) leg of the “Tauern Bike Path” combines mainly easy downhill cycling with beautiful scenery.

From here, Salzburg is another 36 mile (58 kilometer) ride through the Salzach meadows. A little climb to the 1,713 feet (552 meters) high Lueg pass will reward cyclists with a lunch-break at a rustic guesthouse. On a downhill slope, the settlements of Golling and Hallein are passed. Hallein is a historic town close to the German border known for its salt mine. The name Hallein is derived from the Celtic word hall for salt, and the settlement can be traced back over 4,000 years.

After a short ride and a little bit more traffic, the city of Salzburg is reached. The city center, better known as the “Old Town,” is one of the best preserved north of the Alps and listed as a World Heritage Site since 1997. Famous for its baroque architecture, Salzburg is the birthplace of the 18th-century composer Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. A castle called “Hohensalzburg” dominates the view and is one of the largest in Europe. With three universities, Salzburg is filled with the liveliness of a large student population. Many restaurants and cafés dot the city, and visitors outnumber locals by a large margin in peak times.

Cyclist can continue to follow the route along the Salzach and later the Inn. After crossing the border to Germany, they will pass through the picturesque towns of Burghausen and Braunau before reaching the city of Passau. At this point, they will have reached the Danube River. The landscape has changed, and majestic mountains and high peaks have disappeared in the distance. Instead, rolling hills and flat passages great cyclists and the early morning view is usually softened by a light mist.

If cyclists prefer to focus on burning calories and getting back in shape, the more active crowd can simply reverse the trip and travel from Passau or Salzburg to Krimml. Many uphill passages will certainly help to get back in shape after a long winter slack.

The best months to travel are usually Mai – June and September – October. Hotels enjoy their peak summer season in July and August when Europeans take long vacations. Hot temperatures at lower elevations can also limit the fun factor during this time. Cyclists will notice that Austrian’s and German’s always find reasons to celebrate. Town festivals are common, especially during the fall season, and the streets are often closed to traffic and filled with tourists sampling local cuisine, wine and beer from hundreds of vendors.

Salzburg, Austria

Toxic blooms after ocean fertilization?

Bernd — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 22:26:14 +0000

London, Ontario (Global Adventures): Fertilizing the ocean with iron to halt global warming may not be such a good idea after all, scientists say. The mineral appears to boost the growth of plankton that produces a deadly neurotoxin, a newly published study concludes.

Iron is one of the most important nutrients in the oceans. Dust storms naturally transport minerals that contain iron from the land to the sea. To combat global warming, several scientists did recommend fertilizing the oceans with iron substrates to encourage plankton growth. Since plankton reacts with carbon dioxide through photosynthesis, more plankton means less carbon dioxide. Experiments have shown that plankton can hold carbon dioxide, considered a major greenhouse gas, even after it dies and sinks to the bottom of the oceans.

Charles Trick, a scientist from the University of Western Ontario, now says that neurotoxins known as domoic acid, a substance responsible for the human illness called amnesic shellfish poisoning, can find its way into the human food chain. While harmful algal blooms that include these toxic species can be found in nitrogen rich coastal waters around the world, fertilizing the oceans with iron will increase the algal blooms Pseudo-nitzschia. Shellfish acts as vectors that later transfer the domoic acid to humans.

Pseudo-nitzschia “is out there in the most pristine environments”, said William Cochlan, an oceanographer at the San Francisco State University. “They produce low levels of toxin, so they’re not harmful. But if you add iron, and these cells proliferate, and produce more toxin per cell, then you have a problem,” so the co-author of the study.

Norway: Fjords, Scenery, Shipwrecks

Bernd — Wed, 17 Mar 2010 12:23:03 +0000

Bergen (Global Adventures): Norway occupies the western portion of the Scandinavian Peninsula. The country, which voted to stay out of the European Union, is a constitutional monarchy and King Harald V is the chief of state. 4.8 million Norwegians call an area slightly larger than New Mexico home and enjoy one of the highest standards of living in the world, thanks to abundant natural resources such as petroleum, hydro power, fish, forests, and minerals.

Norway features 15,626 miles (25,148 kilometers) coastline that encompasses hundreds of magnificent fjords and numerous small islands. With a population of 256,000, Bergen is the second largest city and located on the south-western coast. Despite being as far north as the southern tip of Greenland, Bergen’s weather is relatively mild. In fact, Bergen enjoys one of the warmest climates in Norway, thanks to the Gulf Stream. The city is home to the Institute of Marine Research (IMR), an advisory services company in the fields of marine ecosystems and aquaculture. Bergen is also the main base for the Royal Norwegian Navy, and its harbor is Norway’s largest port.

The city of Bergen is almost surrounded by water. Within a 20 mile (32 kilometer) range, divers have access to at least 50 known shipwrecks, including the Frankenwald. Built in 1922, the 5,000 ton German steam ship sunk on January 6, 1940 after it struck an islet in the Sognefjord. The wreck, which is considered one of the best dives in Norway, sits perfectly upright on a sandy bottom in 138 feet (42 meter). Divers reach the deck in approximately 98 feet (30 meter), and the rear mast extends to a depth of 23 feet (7 meter). Handrails, deck winches and lifeboat davits are still in place. The sheer scale and size of the 400 feet (122 meter) long wreck is truly awesome. The Frankenwald is nicely decorated with plumose anemones and other species.

From the shores of a village called Vadheim, another wreck with an interesting history can be reached. The Oldenburg is a 4,988 ton German boat that has participated in both World Wars. Built in 1914 as a transport boat, the ship was requisitioned by the German navy and converted to the merchant raider. During World War I the Oldenburg became the most successful warship of all time, sinking, mining and capturing close to 50 Allied ships.

After the war, the British ceded the Oldenburg, and later sold her to the French. In 1933, the French sold the ship back to the Germans. During World War II, the boat was once again requisitioned by the German navy, this time as a transport ship to support the German occupation of Norway.

During its history, the ship had many names, including Pungo, Möve (Moewe), Vineta, and Greenbrier. Today, the wreck rests on her starboard side at a slope with a starting depth of 82 feet (25 meter). The bridge is in 131 feet (40 meters) of water, and several cabins and rooms that make up this superstructure can be explored. The stern of the vessel lies in over 197 feet (60 meter) of water.

The German cargo ship Katja hit a reef in November 1964. The stern broke off and the 148 feet (45 meter) boat did sink quickly. Divers will find the wreck in 66 feet (20 meter) in the sand between two rocky ridges. The stern section is upright and still intact, and an anchor lies against the port side. Sinks and toilets can be seen inside the hull.

The remains of the 3,077 ton steamship Anna Sofia can be found in Haugesund at depths from 115 to 164 feet (35 to 50 meter). The Norwegian-owned ship was built in Newcastle in 1919, but commandeered by the Germans during World War II. She hit the Trollholmen just north of Haugesund in February 1944, and sank quickly. The vessel lies on her port side and has not been salvaged. Unfortunately, the wreck site is in a shipping lane and exposed to tides.

Not too far away rests another steamship, the Vestra. The 1,422 ton boat was built in Holland in 1904. Again, the Germans commandeered the 243 feet (74 meter) long ship during World War II. Anti-aircraft guns did not help much – the ship was sunk by British bombers during October 1944 while carrying a cargo of limestone.

Divers will find the wreck sitting upright with her bow pointing to the North. The superstructure collapsed, and the hull has been badly damaged. Since the Vestra rests in the middle of the harbor, permission from the Harbormaster is required to dive the vessel.

The Barenfels was another German steamship with triple expansion and turbine engines that sank in April of 1944. The 7,569 ton boat was struck by a mine laid from a British mini-submarine at her moorings in Bergen. While the bow was salvaged, the stern section of the 460 feet (140 meter) long ship sank while it was towed away. What’s left from the wreck lies on its portside in about 66 feet (20 meter).

Divers planning to visit Norway should book their accommodation in advance to avoid surprises. An umbrella is recommended, since Bergen has 260 rainy days per year. The water temperature can be a balmy 63 degrees during late summer and early fall, thanks to the Gulf Stream. Even during the winter, the temperature stays around 43 degrees, but storms are common.

Visibility varies and usually ranges from 33 – 98 feet (10 to 30 meters). While on the expensive side, Norway undoubtedly offers some of the finest wreck diving in the northern hemisphere, as well as outstanding scenery. Visitors have to observe some rules governing scuba diving in Norway: Diving in the areas of military bases, fishing zones and habitats is not allowed. Divers need to deploy a dive flag at all times, and spear fishing is strictly forbidden.

A YouTube video showing divers exploring the wreck of the Frankenwald can be found here.

Bergen, Norway

Mackenzie: Cold water diving at its best

Bernd — Tue, 16 Mar 2010 12:28:31 +0000

Victoria (Global Adventures): British Columbia is one of the top rated diving destinations in North America. Canada’s westernmost Province has a coastline that stretches for more than 17,000 miles (27,000 kilometers), and includes deep, mountainous fjords and about six thousand islands, most of which are uninhabited.

The Coastal Mountains and the Inside Passage’s many inlets provide spectacular scenery, and help the outdoor adventure and ecotourism industry to attract visitors from all over the world. British Columbia has long been enjoyed for pursuits like mountain biking, hiking and camping, rock climbing and mountaineering, hunting, fishing, and scuba diving.

The North Pacific waters are home to more than 5,000 species of invertebrates and nearly 400 species of fish, including crabs, prawns, and large octopuses. British Columbia is known for excellent wall diving, a healthy marine environment, big animal encounters, and superb wreck diving.

The 366 feet (112 meter) long HMCS Mackenzie rests on the seafloor at a depth of 90 to 106 feet (27 to 32 meter) in the Georgia Strait off Sidney, British Columbia. Launched on May 25, 1961, the 2,880 ton anti-submarine destroyer was assigned to the Pacific Fleet and served largely as a training ship. After 30 years of service, during which she visited 96 foreign ports and sailed 845,640 nautical miles, the ship was decommissioned on August 3, 1993.

The Artificial Reef Society of British Columbia purchased the HMCS Mackenzie in March 1995. After cleaning the boat, it was scuttled on September 16, 1995. Today, the ship sits on clay and rock with a 20 degree list to port.

At a depth of around 60 feet, divers can explore the bow and deck guns, superstructure, and exhaust stacks. The radar tower extends all the way up to approximately 30 feet (9 meter). A total of 5 decks with access portals cut into the ship allow divers to penetrate the boat. Many of the artifacts are still aboard the ship, so divers will always find something to explore. The former command bridge is easily accessible within recreational diving limits, and many interior rooms, stairwells, and corridors can be explored.

The wreck is in excellent condition and there is no risk of collapse. Any potentially dangerous compartments have been sealed prior to sinking. However, it is always a good idea to follow techniques used by technical divers and deploy a reel when penetrating the wreck since the structure has accumulated tons of silt over the years. Marine live has already settled in on the wreck, and divers can find Wolf Eels, different species of Rockfish, Anemones, Sea Stars, Lingcod, Cabazon’s, and Pacific Octopus. The outside of the hull is encrusted with Sponges, Tubeworms and Barnacles.

Visibility at the site is usually around 25 feet (8 meter); however, it can reach 40 feet (12 meter) during autumn and winter. Local divers have reported seeing 80 feet (24 meter) on very rare occasions. To get the best out of the trip, a good dive light is recommended.

Strong currents can occur during large ebbs, so the use of a drift line could be a good idea. Divers should check the current table for Porlier Pass and dive near the slack and always carry a signal buoy in case they get blown away.

Surface water temperatures can hit 64 degrees in the summer, and is usually around 40 – 45 degrees during the winter months. At depth, the water is always around 40 degrees.

The wreck can be found at the following coordinates: 48º 40.094′ N, 123º 17.170′ W.

Stait of Georgia, BC, Canada