Saturday, July 31st, 2010

SS Thistlegorm: Diving the Red Sea

Sharm el-Sheikh (Global Adventures): Located on the southern tip of the Sinai Peninsula, the city of Sharm el-Sheikh overlooks the Straits of Tiran at the mouth of the Gulf of Aqaba. Since tourism is the single most important industry in the area, strict environmental laws have been introduced and commercial shipping has been restricted. Zoning laws limit the height of buildings in the city to blend in with the natural beauty of its surroundings. Over 100 resorts dot the area, which includes the planned community of Naama Bay 3.7 miles (6 kilometers) to the north.

Since the waters are clear and calm for most of the year, Sharm el-Sheikh has become a favorite spot for scuba divers from around the world. 250 different coral reefs in the area are home to 1,000 species of fish. The Ras Mohammed reef at the southern-most tip of the peninsula has been designated a national park, serving to protect the area's wildlife as well as its natural landscape and the shoreline. It offers some jaw-dropping dive sites with 2,625 feet (800 meter) drop-offs, pounding currents and flourishing coral gardens.

The reefs have also developed into a graveyard for many shipwrecks. The most popular one is the SS Thistlegorm. Built in 1940 by Joseph Thompson & Son in Sunderland, England, the Thistlegorm served as a British armed merchant navy ship. She was armed with a 4.7-inch (120mm) anti-aircraft gun and a heavy caliber machine gun was attached to the stern of the ship after she went into service. The vessel was one of several Thistle class ships owned and operated by the Albyn Line.

After departing from Glasgow on June 2, 1941, the SS Thistlegorm sailed as part of a convoy to Cape Town, South Africa. She refueled before heading north along the East coast of Africa and into the Red Sea. Due to a collision in the Suez Canal, the ship moored at safe anchorage close to Sharm el-Sheikh. On October 6, 1941, the boat was hit by two German bombs that blew a hole in the port side, igniting the tank ammunition that was in the hold.

Jacques-Yves Cousteau (re)discovered the 419 feet (128 meter) long wreck in 1956, using information provided by local fisherman. He found the stern section of the wreck sitting almost horizontal on the sandy bottom and later documented the exploration in his book The Living Sea. After Sharm el-Sheikh gained a reputation as a water sport resort in the 1990s, divers started to explore the wreck on a daily base.

Today, the Thistlegorm sits in 105 feet (32 meters) of water on the sea floor. The massive explosion blew part of her superstructure away, making the wreck very accessible to divers. Trucks, motorcycles, engines, army boots, rifles, and airplane spare parts can be seen in the holding decks. A bath tub filled with water in the 72 to 82 degrees temperature range waits for divers towards the bow, and a toilet sits near the stern. Some of the highlights appreciated by all visitors include train wagons and armored vehicles previously destined for the Royal Army. A steam locomotive which had been stored as deck cargo can be found on the port side of the wreck. The large propeller, the 3.5" gun and two anti aircraft guns are still in place. Artillery litters the blast area. With good buoyancy control, divers can penetrate the wreck and explore the rear accommodations area.

Unfortunately, the vessel is rapidly disintegrating. Over the years, dive boats mooring to the wreck have broken down the structure. Corrosion is accelerated due to the high salinity of the water in the Red Sea. To help preserve the wreck, the Hurghada Environmental Protection and Conservation Association installed thirty two permanent mooring buoys in December 2007. Due to the strong current and mistakes made during the installation, none of the buoys remain in place. The dive boats once again moor directly to the wreck, further disintegrating the SS Thistlegorm.

While the British tabloid The Times named the Thistlegorm as one of the top ten wreck diving sites in the world, divers may want to hurry to explore the place. The front boiler cover of the port steam train did already fall off, the port deck above the number 1 hold has collapsed, and most handrails used by dive master to moor their boats are gone. All but a few of the portholes have disappeared.

Nevertheless, dropping down to the bow can be an awesome sight, thanks in part to 80 - 100 feet (24 to 30 meters) visibility. The wreck has a resident school of sweepers hovering around its upper deck. Turtles, Batfish, Jacks, Snapper and Barracuda are a common site, and even sharks patrol the Thistlegorm from time to time. The vessel is still a heaven for wreck enthusiasts, but it is also one of the most underrated fish dives in the area. Arriving early on the site helps to enjoy the dive, since it can be a Circus when the day-boat crowd arrives.

The wreck can be found at 27°42'00"N; 34°05'00"E, and a video found on YouTube offers some insight into the dive.

Sharm el-Sheikh

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